The Palace On Wheels Is Back. Is It Worth The Fare?
Seven nights, eight stops and a dining car that still serves thali on silver. We rode it end to end.
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Notes From The Road
The Journal
What we saw, what we ate, and what we would do differently next time.
Journal Posts
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What An Ayurveda Morning In Kerala Actually Feels Like
Warm oil, a steady hand and nowhere to be until lunch. Our wellness designer on the first morning of a retreat.
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Mumbai’s Art Deco Mile, Building By Building
The second-largest collection of Art Deco in the world, walked in a single morning from Churchgate to the sea.
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Amber Fort Without The Elephant Ride: Better Ways Up The Hill
The jeep track, the old stepped path and the back gate most visitors never find.
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Varanasi At Dawn: Why We Always Take The First Boat
The river is loudest at six, and it is the only hour the city is truly awake. Watch the first boat out.
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Mumbai In Forty-Eight Hours, Before The Flight Home
Two days, one sea link and the best vada pav on the western line, planned around a late flight.
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How To Photograph The Taj Without Two Hundred Strangers
Which gate, which hour, and why the Mehtab Bagh bank across the river is worth the extra drive.
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Humayun’s Tomb: The Garden That Taught The Taj
Sixty years before the Taj, a widow built this, and set the rules the Taj would follow.
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